A brief guide to paint, part 2
Floor paints are resistant to oil and petrol therefore provide a great finish to a garage. If painting a concrete floor key the surface first and remove any loose or weak parts of the floor. Spray a little water over your surface area before sweeping, thus keeping dust to a minimum. Make any repairs before you apply the top coats. At least two coats will be required. Oil-based floor paints can be re-painted after sixteen hours but do take a long time to fully dry. I would suggest waiting up to four days before placing heavy permanent fixtures back into place i.e. the car, or, in the lounge, the couch.
Floor paints can be used on wooden floors after the surface has had a good sand. After you have swept away the dust, making sure one collects the debris which may have collected between the floor boards, wipe the floor with a damp cloth and allow the wood to dry. One should sand between coats to achieve a smooth finish. Depending on the condition of your floor it may be necessary to use a prime coat prior to the floor paint. Floor paints are available in a large variety of colours but are generally more expensive than basic white or emulsion paint. Occasionally clients like a rough/bohemian finish to the wooden floor. This can be achieved by a sand or rub down using a 120 grade sandpaper after your final coat.
When painting exterior brickwork use masonry paints. You may need to stabilise the brickwork depending on the condition in which you find your surface. Certain masonry paints contain stabiliser which will save you a great deal of time but this really does depend on the condition of the brickwork. The more damage to your surface the more work required to put it right.
If painting a kitchen or bathroom you will need to use water-resistant paint. An oil base or acrylic eggshell finish could be used although there are specific products called kitchen/bathroom paints which are often mould-resistant – make sure you check the information on the side of the product.